Coming to a Halt | Motivated Camera Moves

The best shots in a film aren’t always just the fancy, super expensive ones. The most effective shots in a film connect the cinema to the story and communicate the plot; whether that's using a tripod, a stabiliser, or even simply handheld.

This is what motivated camera moves are all about - and today we are going to talk about a move we call “coming to a halt”. Welcome to The Film Look.

Today we are using a page from the book “Master Shots” by Christopher Kenworthy. In particular, his chapter on “Revelations & Discoveries”, page 112, titled “MOVING ON”.

If you want to step up your game and learn how to connect your shots directly to your story, this is the book for you. We haven’t been paid to speak about this book, it’s just a great resource that every filmmaker should have access to.

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US links: 

Master Shots Volume 1: https://amzn.to/2tcPMlo

UK links:

Master Shots Volume 1: https://amzn.to/2ln4ZMv

Let’s set the scene: EXT. BACK ALLEY - DAY

Jimmy Nine Fingers is being pursued by the police for stealing priceless necklaces from the jewellers. He’s finally made a break from the fuzz and runs into a back alley only to be stopped by Detective Rusty Johnson.

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There are a few things that aid the effectiveness of this shot, and it all links to the character and story motivation. Firstly you have the character. They are trying to escape a situation, this is why they are running. Then they collide with an obstacle, this is why they stop.

The shot type changes during the move. The motivation for this is to convey the BEST POSSIBLE story at that particular cinematic moment. We begin with a wide shot then land in a close up.

The actor’s performance at the beginning of the shot is almost entirely physical. They are running and we understand they are being chased. By the time they stop, the performance is in the actor’s facial expression. This is why we are landing so close at the end of the move - the performance is now all in the details.

The movement of the shot is complimented in two ways. Firstly the character is moving at great speed. The camera matches this speed and closes in. The actor and the camera land on their marks at the same time, which gives us a sense of fast movement coming to a rapid halt. It’s almost like the camera is the one stopping the character which serves as motivation for the camera move itself.

If we remove the camera movement and instead use a static camera, the effect of rapid movement coming to a halt is lost but we do retain the effect of the camera becoming the obstacle.

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This type of shot would work well if the character knows they have failed to reach their target in time...such as in Raiders of the Lost Ark when Indy know he will never find Marion in the crowd.

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If we have a static character coupled with a moving camera which stops, the rapid change in speed is lost and feels more like the camera move emphasises the character’s slow but strong reaction to something.

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This type of shot is also known as The Spielberg Face. 

Having three versions of this move is a powerful thing: you can make the choice to add or subtract emphasis on certain parts of this move and tailor it to suit YOUR film.

The tools you use to achieve this move will give you slightly different results. If you use a stabilizer for instance, in our case this is a handheld gimbal, you will get something which looks more clean cut and Hollywood-esque.

If you go handheld, the story beats will be the same but the move will contribute a more brutal approach, which would lend well to a war scene or documentary-style of film.

You can use this technique for a bunch of different scenarios:

  • A boy needs to get home before his mother gets back from the supermarket only to discover when he reaches the house that the car is already on the drive, or

  • The protagonist and his love interest are escaping a glass-walled facility but get stopped by a robot killing machine from the future.

Kenworthy goes into more detail about this move including shot height and blocking details. It’s definitely worth picking up a copy of Master Shots if direction and cinematography is your passion.


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Don't Underestimate Feedback from your Cast and Crew | Behind The Scenes

With only a week to go until our new short film The Asylum Groove is released we break down the final moments before we hit export and speak about the episodes to come on the channel.


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Why you need a door wedge in your Camera Bag

In order to shoot your film, you’ll need to pack the following: your camera, extra batteries, lenses, shoulder rig, extra cards, a microphone, and... a door wedge.

Yes, this video is all about why you should include a door wedge in the essential equipment you take to a shoot.

A door wedge was something I didn’t know I needed in my camera bag until we were on set shooting our latest short film The Asylum Groove.

The shot was 1L, a medium close up of Sam, our main character. He walks into the frame and starts to mop. The shot was low down so we could not use a tripod. Instead we rested the camera on the handles of the shoulder rig so the camera would have a steady point to rest on and not be too shaky.

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This worked great, but the shot wasn’t level. So I asked the camera team if there was anything we could stick underneath to make it level. Adam Opie, the 2nd AC on the film, handed me a door wedge which was the perfect tool for the job. I was able to incrementally tilt the camera until it was level.

After this epiphanny, we went out and bought a few door wedges, and they have been coming in handy for lot of different setups.

Sometimes in the studio, when presenting, we can’t always fit a tripod into a corner, so we build up some boxes then use a lens cap or some paper to tilt the camera up to get the correct angle. You can never get the lens cap in the right position, but the door wedge has solved that problem.

On set, the door wedge can also be used to help level out a track. You possibly may need a few wedges depending on how long and the type of surface you’re building the track on so making them out of wood will be your cheapest option.

Door-Wedge1.gif

If the chair your talent is sitting on is wobbly, you can use a wedge to solve that problem as long as it is not in shot.

And finally, if you have a shot of a character walking through a doorway, you can use the door wedge to keep it open. It’s the right tool for the job.

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Dialogue is MORE than Exposition

One thing we can get wrong is NOT utilizing dialogue to its full potential. It's easy to write on a page but can be difficult to get sounding great. I don’t think it's because of any lack of creativity or imagination - I think we may simply be approaching dialogue from the wrong angle.

Dialogue is MORE than just a tool for exposition. “Show don’t tell” is a trick used in writing to force ourselves to find a visual way to give audience information without resorting to lines of dialogue.

Instead of Jimmy shouting “I’m so angry, Mindy!”, have him smash a plate. No lines - all visual.

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If you apply this rule to your writing, you now have a vacant space where the dialogue used to be. This gives you the opportunity to use dialogue to demonstrate character traits.

If you think of dialogue as a tool to open up characters, they actions, and better yet their REACTIONS to statements and questions, it starts to open up a lot more opportunities to see who a character really is.

Let's go back to Jimmy in the kitchen. Originally we had Jimmy’s line, “I’m so angry, Mindy!”. Then we found the action in that line, ANGRY, and replaced the dialogue with an action, “Jimmy smashes a plate on the floor.” It shows us his anger.

Let's add a line back in before he smashes the plate. Smashing the plate shows us his emotion. So we can use a line of dialogue to further unravel his relationship with Mindy.

Jimmy: “You are just like your mother, Mindy!” Jimmy smashes a plate on the floor. With a line like that, we are given information about their relationship dynamic.

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“You are just like your mother, Mindy”: this signifies Jimmy’s distaste of Mindy’s mother. It also shows that Jimmy is starting to see traits of Mindy’s mother in Mindy. He is now perceiving her in a different light. A line like that could also tell us that Jimmy has been holding in this feeling as he expresses it during a moment of anger, so maybe Jimmy keeps most of his feeling to himself.

But we can go one step further! Dialogue is not JUST delivered. It is also received.

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There are AT LEAST two people in a conversation. So we can show two sides of a conversation using the delivery of a line and the other person’s reaction to the line. Dialogue is ACTIVE then REACTIVE.

“You are just like your mother, Mindy!”...Mindy could then say something like “She’s a better mother than yours!” which gives us the impression that Mindy doesn’t like Jimmy’s mother but also that she is the type of person who isn’t afraid to say what she is feeling.

Let’s try changing the line and see how it changes the reaction to the previous line

“You are just like your mother, Mindy!”....Mindy then responds “Oh my god. You’re right.”. So in this instance she has realised she has messed up, and is able to perceive her attitude.

But we can actually use the rule “Show - Don’t tell” here!

Instead of the line “Oh my god. You’re right”, she could simply freeze from the conversation, give a moment of stuttering dialogue, but then hold back and drop her eye contact with Jimmy.

Once you start to think of dialogue as being an element which can be received and not simply delivered, you are increasing the opportunities for developing a character’s personality.

One last thing: The reaction to a line of dialogue doesn’t always have to be the clean-cut correct answer. Misinterpretation is something we can include to give dialogue more realism.

Mindy says the line “You shouldn't be sleeping on the sofa anymore”. The reaction to this by default be may that she is inviting Jimmy to sleep upstairs again and she wants to resolve the situation. But let's play the scene out.

Mindy: “You shouldn't be sleeping on the sofa anymore”.

Jimmy: “So I can sleep in our bed again?”

Mindy: “No, you need to move out.” This adds a bit of a twist to the conversation and confirms her ACTUAL interpretation to that line.

Obviously this is a very simple scene with some super basic one dimensional characters, but hopefully that gets the point across.

Try to find the emotion in a line and replace it with action. Then think of the REACTION of a line as a way to show character traits. If you want dialogue to sound more realistic, try having the characters NOT QUITE understand the question or statement, and then have them confirm the real answer.


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DIY Equipment Cart

We’ve all been on set were all of your camera equipment is spread out on the floor in various black camera bags, hidden in a side pocket, or out of reach.

To solve this problem we have made a DIY equipment cart which can be used in a studio or on set.

The cart we used can be found on amazon: it is 75cm long, 70cm tall, the width is 35cm, and has 3 shelves. The wheels that come with this cart work for the amount of weight we are going to store on it, but you can always add some heavy duty wheels if you want.

We added pieces of carpet to each shelf, creating a softer surface for our equipment to be placed onto, and so it wouldn’t roll around.

We kept the top shelf of the cart clear so when setting up our camera rig we had a place for all of the pieces of equipment to go, whilst we assembled the rig on a tripod.

One thing we did attach to the top shelf was a flat headed screwdriver so anytime you need to add or remove the tripod plate you don’t need to be searching around for a coin in your pocket. Also, we added a bunch of Allen keys we use for our camera rigs.

Most equipment on the cart can be accessed from both sides, but we have made one side the front and one the back.

We’ve done this so everything will be setup in the same order, and if you are in a small place you can park it up correctly so you still have access to everything.

The second shelf is where most of the action is happening. On the right hand side we have all of the chargers we use which are connected to a extension cable that hangs off the side when not being used.

The main charger we use is for our Sony NP batteries as we use them to power our camera via a dummy battery, which you can find a video about that here.

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The charger we has a battery level percentage which comes in very handy.

The box behind has extra batteries and chargers that we do not use often, and it is also used to store the batteries and chargers when in transport.  

Once a battery is fully charged they move to a section on the left hand side.

We divided this section up with some white backing card, but cardboard would do the same job. Having it divided clearly shows were the charged batteries go.

Next we have a small section for the lenses we are using on the shoot. For our short films we switch between a 35, 58, and 85mm and having them on hand in a safe place saves time finding them in a bag. When a lens is being used, the caps from the lens are left on the cart, so they don’t go missing.

Since camera batteries and lenses are the thing you will will change the most, having a dedicated space allows everything to be stored correctly and safely.

It’s also a lot easier to direct someone to one place when changing a battery or lens, instead of them trying to find a battery in the pocket of a camera bag.

On the second shelf we also added LED lights so when it gets dark we can still see where everything goes.

The bottom shelf is where we store small equipment cases, as these normally still have power and audio cables, clips, and extra accessories inside which we might still need.

Next we have a place for our tool bag which is always handy on set, and the final box is where the flat batteries go when all of the charges are being used. Having this on a separate shelf makes sure the flat batteries do not get mixed with the charged ones.

On the front of the cart we have a plastic tube which holds our coloured gels, a velcro tape holder, a tin to store pens. These are all connect via bolts and wing nuts so everything can be easily removed if needed.

We also have a place for all of our metal clips and pegs to go. These are clipped on a piece of card so when in transport they can all be taken out of a camera bag and clipped to the cart.

This cart works well for us in our studio or on our short films. We already had some of the materials we used for this cart like the carpet and bolts, but we have estimated it would cost around £60 to make it from scratch and you can just keep adding to it until it suits you.

A professional equipment cart can cost over £1000, but this is because they are being used on films which has camera equipment that are much heavier and can cost hundreds of thousands pounds, so you will probably want to use a cart that costs thousands.

We still have a few things we want to add to this cart and we would love to hear your suggestions.

🎥 This episode's kit/gear/equipment:

🇺🇸 US links:

Cart - https://amzn.to/2JkVz1E

Flat-headed screwdriver - https://amzn.to/2xuUH5E

Allen Keys - https://amzn.to/2Hb3uJF

Sony NP Battery Charger - https://amzn.to/2sw4p27

Sony NP USB Charger - https://amzn.to/2J5S4bN

LED Lights - http://amzn.to/2fQ67ZF

 

🇬🇧 UK links:

Cart - https://amzn.to/2sri5ft

Cart Carpet - https://amzn.to/2sri5ft

Flat-headed screwdriver - https://amzn.to/2J7kWoo

Allen Keys - https://amzn.to/2J7kWoo

Sony NP Battery Charger - https://amzn.to/2xydkFP

Sony NP USB Charger - https://amzn.to/2kEbs50

LED Lights - https://amzn.to/2smXUPW


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Get Better Looking Gunshots in the Dark

Gunshots: one of the most popular visual effects techniques used on YouTube. Getting gunshots to look great can take some tweaking - and achieving a realistic gunshot effect in the dark is even more difficult. But there are some things YOU can do to help achieve a realistic gunshot in the dark.

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A gunshot is essentially a small explosion. And an explosion primarily produces light and sound. The sound part of this technique is pretty straight forward. You download a gunshot sound effect, sync it to the muzzle flash, tweak the sound a bit, and away you go.

If your gunshots are sounding too similar and you are starting to hear some repetition, we have a video about how to make them sound better:

The explosion from the gunshot produces a massive amount of light in a split second, and in a dark scene this will be amplified.

You CAN add some fake light spill in post-production for your daytime shots. You can do this by duplicating your layer, mask around the subject where you want it to brighten, brighten it up with something like a curves or exposure adjustment, and feather out the mask to blend it all together. It only shows for a single frame so it works well enough. But this won’t work for a dark environment because you simply can’t fake a realistic fall-off of light.

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In this case, you’ll need to produce a real-life flash during the gunshot. This is what we learned from the process:

Using a Flash

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The initial idea was to use a portable camera flash. It has a button on it to test the flash so the plan was to hit the flash whenever the subject fires. After trying this out we soon realised that because of the small differences in shutter speed, frame rate, and rolling shutter, the flash was giving us shutter interference, resulting in a frame that looked like this. No good.

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Flashlight

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Next on the list was a flashlight. This was getting us closer to the result but it simply wasn’t bright enough.

Aputure LED panel

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Finally we tried this LED panel from Aputure. The great thing about this light for this effect in particular is that it has a light switch separate from the intensity dial. Some cheaper lights have a dial which clicks on then turns up. But if you can get a light which switches on and off with a simple click, it will make this effect a lot easier. 

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Our findings

So the light must be super bright. You want it to highlight your subjects face and light up some of the background for maximum effect. We dialled it in so it didn’t completely blow out but produced a very hot highlight.

Now the most important part of making this effect look good are the steps you’ll take to capture the light flash.

A muzzle flash from the gun happens directly after pulling the trigger, but BEFORE the recoil from the explosion. The recoil is the pressure of the gun jolting your wrist back, so the steps are very important to make it look realistic.

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Pull the trigger, then freeze in place. Flick the light on, then flick the light off. Then simulate the recoil. Rinse and repeat.

In your editor you will make a cut on the frame the trigger is pulled. Then go to where the light is at its brightest, make a cut, delete the footage in between and join it together. Then scroll along and find the moment of recoil. Make a cut and take out the gap here too. The light should be on screen for only a single frame, and this is where you will add your muzzle flash and smoke elements.

One downside to this effect is that we were only able to produce it from a static camera angle. We tested a few different ways to simulate the light in a moving shot: one by shooting a take without the light, then shooting a take with the light on, and trying to match up the takes. But unless the takes are near identical, the cut looks far too jarring. So if you guys think you have a solution for producing this in a moving shot, let us know in the comments below, or better yet, show us how you did it in a video!

Visual effects work most effectively when they EMBED into the physical scene. Compositing effects onto footage without ANY physical interaction will result in tacky-looking VFX. So if you want your visual effects to shine, think about what those effects would produce in the real-world and try to replicate it.


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Turn Your Script into a Powerful Blueprint

A screenplay is not only the plot of the film written on paper - it is the blueprint which the whole production team and the actors will follow, breakdown, research, and prepare when making the movie. Because of this, everything you see in the script, you must be able to shoot.

For example: “Gary is nervous before his interview with Derek.” Nervousness is an emotion Gary is feeling internally. We can’t simply shoot “nervousness” because nothing is actually being outputted.

Imagine you are on a film shoot and you read the line “Gary is nervous before his interview with Derek”. You then have to ask yourself “How do I show Gary is nervous?”. You have to find a way to then SHOW that Gary is nervous.

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Instead, try this: “Gary nervously taps on his knee.”. This is clearly an ACTION which suggests Gary is nervous. We can physically shoot Gary’s nervousness from the tapping on his knee because it is a clear indication of nervous body language.

To go one step further with this rule: How much emphasis do you put on this emotion? How important is Gary’s nervousness in this scene?

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If his nervous feeling before meeting Derek is a critical plot or character development moment then you might want to scale up the nervous action to something bigger than tapping on his knee.

The stronger you express this emotion in the script, the more the audience will pay attention to it. If his nervousness is is crucial to Gary’s character, you may want to go with Number 5. If it isn’t as important, maybe lessen the impact. Or if it isn’t important at all, don’t even write it.


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Match your Audio to a Hollywood Film

Before you hit the final export, there are some things you should be doing to make sure your film’s sound is audible, clear, and comfortable for your audience. Let me show you TWO tricks that will help your sound stand out from the crowd! 

Just like testing the picture of your film on a bunch of different TVs, phones, and computer screens, you should also be DEVICE TESTING the sound before you export the final mix.

If you are in the recording, editing, or mixing process: check out our indie film sound guide here for all the basics of sound. 

First of all, try listening to your mix on the best quality audio device you have access to. In our case, this is a set of studio audio monitors owned by our friend Jordan, a musician and producer. But not everyone has the space to set up an acoustic-proof studio with mega expensive equipment.

Jordan Miller

For most of us, and that’s us included, a set of headphones is what we have access to for the majority of the sound editing and mixing process.

If you are serious about your sound, it’s worth investing in a strong and great-sounding pair of headphones which give you great dynamic range, rich tone, and are built to last.

For Rob, this wasn’t the case. I bought these headphones 15 years ago and gave them to rob when I upgraded 3 years ago. They’ve lasted, but the audio quality isn’t great and they are quite literally falling apart.

Rob's dodgy headphones

The team over at 1more heard Rob’s cries and have sent over their Triple Driver Over-ear headphones for us to try out.

After using them for sound mixing, listening to music, and watching films, myself and Rob both pretty much said the same thing “It’s not like it makes things just louder or even just more clear, you can literally hear sound which you can’t with other headphones”, which is funny when we found out that 1more’s tagline is “hear more”.

1more triple driver headphones

But honestly, they’re a great bit of kit: sound great, built really well, comfortable, and at a price which a zero-budget filmmaker can actually afford.

So if you are on the market for a new set of cans, follow the link: 

 

So once you’ve listened to and are happy with your your mix on the good sound kit, it’s time to work your way down the audio-clarity scale.

Think about where your film is going to be listened to the most. If you’re putting your film on YouTube for example, you’ll want to listen to your film on a phone, a laptop, through earbuds, and on a TV. These are the most common devices used for watching YouTube videos, so cater the sound mix to the majority of your audience.

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You may find that some sound effects or lines of dialogue that are clear using headphones aren’t being picked up on a TV, for example.

Go back to your mixing application and boost the sounds you feel have been washed out, but don’t push it so far that it sounds bad on your default headphones. Try to find yourself a happy medium.

Another mistake we zero-budget filmmakers can make is exporting the film without VOLUME REFERENCING the sound.

We came under this problem with our last film, Backstage. The audio was mixed so the sound effects, foley, dialogue, and music were working together and were clearly defined in their own soundspace, but when we played it on a TV, we had to push the volume up a lot more than usual.

So even though everything was mixed together correctly and sounded loud enough on the PC through headphones, it was simply too quiet on everything else.

Mixing Backstage.jpg

In order to make sure the loudness of your film is matched with that of TV shows and films, you can do something called VOLUME REFERENCING.

For a quick and easy way to accomplish this; find an episode of your favourite TV show or Film on Netflix or a Blu-ray, set your volume to a comfortable level you’d usually set it to and listen to it for a few minutes.

Then pause the film and listen to your own film. If you needed to grab the remote and turn the volume right up to match the previous film, your mix is simply too quiet.

By doing this, the volume of your film will match (to a decent degree) that of films and TV.

When you are mixing audio on one device it can sound as loud as needed. But until you reference your film’s audio to something else, you might not realise it's too quiet or sometimes even too loud.

The audience shouldn't have to adjust the volume of the film mid-way through. It’s not like you have a remote in your hand in the cinema! And if you are planning on taking your film to festivals, you don’t want YOUR film to be the one which nobody can hear!

Match your Audio to a Hollywood Film

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Filmmaking is a Game!

From the initial idea to the final export of your film, there are lots of steps you need to do which will help you achieve The Film Look. It’s kind of like playing a game of Monopoly.

Let me explain.

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Idea/Writing

Every film starts of with an idea. Some ideas will be good, some bad, and sometimes you just have to make them to find out.

An idea is nothing unless you have a script.

The first properties on a monopoly board are not the most desirable at the start of the game, but in the case of filmmaking these are the most valuable.

Investing time is all you will need to do at this stage of the game, and developing your idea by writing the 1st, 2nd, 3rd or how many drafts of your film should be done now.

Once you have a draft you are happy with, take a chance and let others read it. Take their feedback onboard, make changes where needed, and work on it until you have a final draft you are happy with.

Having a solid script will definitely be your get out of jail free card when you are on set shooting it.

Pre-Production

You want to be spending more time in pre-production that you do in production. Having a thought-out production plan will help make the shoot go a lot smoother.

First you want to invest in someone who can help you produce the film.

Depending on the level of film you are trying to make, this person could have a lot of experience or none at all, but they need to be as passionate as you are.

Next you can work out the budget for the film. Whatever it is, start to assemble your cast and crew. Invest as much time and energy as you can here; these are the people who will be helping make your film a reality.

Scout around and find the locations for your film. We have a video about how to do that if you want to check it out.

Build a production plan that is made up of your shots list, storyboards, and shooting schedule. Be organised but don't advance to shooting just yet.

Spend time and money on the production design of your film. The right-looking costumes, props, and set dressing will allow you to be ahead of the game and achieve The Film Look a lot sooner.

This is where all those hours spent planning your film come into play. Things will not always go to plan, so be flexible and work with your team to make the film.

Don’t take a chance with sound; get someone whose sole job it is to record sound. And let your picture and sound people do there job, but if you are the picture and sound person, don’t forget to direct your actors.

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The more roles you can give to others, the more each person can concentrate on their own job.

From the planning stage, your camera operator will understand the look you are going for, and he or she can direct the 1st AD, Grip, and Gaffers to help achieve that look.

After hours, days, weeks, or even months of shooting, you will now have all of the footage you need to edit your film.

Post-Production

But don’t jump ahead and start editing just yet. Time is back on your side so spend it Organising and syncing your files. Once the edit gets complex, you’ll be glad you spent time organising it as you can’t buy this time back.

Get your rough cut done; but don’t worry about how the colour grading looks, how the effects shots are not complete, or even how the audio sounds at this point.

Share it with others, ask them about the edit and what does and does not work. It’s better to find this out now.

From the feedback you receive, make changes, colour grade your film, finish the effects, and add your Foley and sound effects.

Then don’t look at it for a week!

That separation from the project will allow you to see the edit with fresh eyes; you will see your mistakes and way you can improve it. Do as much as you can to make it the best you can, but tax yourself to get it complete.

Having a final film you can show others and learn from will be your most valuable asset.

There are many steps to filmmaking that I haven't described. Plus it’s not as easy as a board game, but you CAN play the filmmaking game like you're playing monopoly.

Take every opportunity, buy every property, take every chance.

At first your films might not turn out the way you thought they would, but you will have learned about the process of how to make a film. The more times you go around the board, the more your skills you’ll take with you onto the next film.

Once you’ve gone around the board a few times, look at the skills you have developed. You might find there is an area of filmmaking which you want to invest more time and energy into because you enjoy it the most. The more you learn, the more you can invest, and before you know it you have won the game.

Play the game of filmmaking as much as you can, and hit the orange lens cap to subscribe, and remember achieve it one shot at a time.

The-Game-of-filmamking.jpg

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We've Been Challenged to Make a Film! | Behind The Scenes

We sat down with Nate of Nate's Film Tutorials and discussed the film challenges we set each other. Nate challenged us to make a film with only a single word of dialogue - we challenged him to shoot a dialogue between 2 people with the initial line being "What do you mean, you don't have the money?".

We also answered a question by one of our subscribers involving playing music on set, and have begun to work on some Film Look merchandise!


DISCLAIMERS:

Some of these links are affiliate links, if you purchase gear via these links The Film Look will receive a small commission, but there will be no additional cost to you. Thank you!

3 Tricks to Recording Dialogue in a Wide Shot

You’ve just set up an great-looking wide shot during a pinnacle moment of your film. You want to hold the wide shot for the majority of the scene because you want to utilise the close up for the climax.

Problem is, your lav mic is cheap and doesn’t sound great and the boom pole for your shotgun mic is too short to to capture your actors lines! There are few ways to tackle this problem!

There are a few different ways you can capture audio in a wide shot without having to purchase more equipment like extra long boom poles or more expensive radio mics.

Turn your talent around

Close ups are your best opportunity to record clean dialogue because you can position the microphone really close to your actors without getting it in the frame.

More on positioning your microphone here! It’s the first step to great sound!

If you can find a different angle where you can no longer read the actor’s lips such as from behind, from the side, or so far away you can’t barely even make them out, you can edit in the audio from the close ups and the audience will be none-the-wiser! Just make sure you aren’t changing the overall vision and direction of the scene.

From the side.jpg

Plant a microphone

If there is an object between the camera and the actors, you could use it to hide the microphone in shot; such as a tree a bin or a car. Aim the microphone towards your actors and get it as close as possible. You might have to position your actors closer to the planted microphone to capture your actor’s lines better.

planting a mic.jpg

Again, try to find a middle ground between standing to your creative vision and capturing solid audio. There’s nothing worse than bad audio in a film.

Paint out your sound recordist

If the other 2 options simply won’t work: you need to see their lips, and there are no objects to plant a mic, you can still capture great audio by employing some post-production movie magic.

As long as the sound recordist isn’t physically in the way of the actor in the scene you can use something called a clean plate to remove the sound recordist in post production.

Film your scene with the sound recordist booming the mic beside the actor, then ask the sound recordist to leave the frame and keep rolling so you have plenty of footage of empty space.

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In post-production you can use the empty frame you captured to place it in front of the sound recordist, masking them out of the shot. Add a little feathering to the mask layer and you should have yourself a convincing clean plate.

There are some things that might disrupt the effectiveness of this technique.

Please be aware of any shadows or reflections being cast by the sound recordist, as well as any drastic changes in light. You can avoid the shadows and reflections by having the sound recordist stand on the other side of the frame. A ghostly reflection of a sound recordist will break the illusion. And if the sun just went behind the clouds - your clean plate will no longer work.

3 Tricks to Recording Dialogue in a Wide Shot

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"Locks" with Max of Valley Films! | Story in a Can

Max of Valley Films joins us this week for a session of STORY IN A CAN. From 160,000 possible ideas, STORY IN A CAN is a way to break writer's block, get past the creative funk, and start to think of more original and creative ideas.

In each can there are 20 locations, 20 objects, 20 characters, and 20 scenarios. We pick one from each of the cans and try to come up with a film idea on the spot. Sometimes they are bad, but sometimes we turn the idea into a film.

Watch the video to see what stories were made.

We were also recently featured on Max's podcasting talking about collaborating with others. 

And you haven't already, check out his channel and get subsrcibed to stay notified with his films.

Click here for Max's Channel



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Some of these links are affiliate links, if you purchase gear via these links The Film Look will receive a small commission, but there will be no additional cost to you. Thank you!

100 Filmmaking Tips in 10 minutes

With every film we make we always learn something new. That could be a tip, trick, hack, or piece of advice which we did not know. In this video we are going to share 100 filmmaking tips, tricks, hacks, and things we’ve learnt whilst making films, in under 10 minutes.

 

  1. Add labels with the size of lens to each of your lens caps. It makes it much easier to find in your bag.

  2. Can’t draw? take photos to use as your storyboards.

  3. Never place the microphone on the hot shoe of your camera if you are recording dialogue.

  4. Buy a 3.5mm extension cable so you can still plug it into your camera to get it closer to your actor.

  5. If you have a flip out screen on your camera, create a little tap out of tape to make it easier to flip it out.

  6. Use white baking paper as cheap diffusion paper

  7. If you are making DIY equipment or doing hacks to it, make it look as professional as possible. You don’t what to turn up on set with something that looks janky.

  8. Add velcro to a dry wipe pen and your clapper board so you always have a place to store the pen.

  9. Ask personal questions to your actor whilst they are in character to get to know more about your character's backstory. This is called Hot Seating.

  10. Number your batteries so you know how many you have used and have left.

  11. Get the actor to say their dialogue at their highest level they would when performing, then set your levels so you aren’t peaking.

  12. A 5in1 reflector has a 6th use. You can use the cover to wrap around a hanging light to flag it off the walls and focus the light downwards.

  13. Print off a small shot list and clip it to your belt. It will not get in the way, and it will save time as you always have a shot list next to you.

  14. Play music on set to help people get in the role, especially for your actors.

  15. Shoot at a higher f-stop. It’s better to have your shot in focus than shallow depth of field.

  16. Get your actor to perform the action and dialogue that is a couple of lines before the shot you are shooting. This will give them momentum and lead them into the shot.

  17. Watch lots of films.

  18. Watch short films.

  19. Add LED lights to your camera bag.

  20. Go to the Film Riot YouTube channel, click sort by, oldest date added, and watch all of their videos. Also make notes.

  21. Use a headphone splitter so two people can listen during recording and playback.

  22. When your actor/characters sits down, the drama sits down. So have them doing something in the scene, it’s boring just watching two people sitting or standing talking to each other.

  23. Spend time organising your files before you start to edit, you will thank yourself later.

  24. When you have the first draft of your edit complete, don't look at it for a week.

  25. Show it to others, and ask for feedback.

  26. Work on other peoples short films, you will learn a lot more than watching videos.

  27. Take a notepad and a pen with you to make notes about the shoot, being on your phone does not look professional

  28. Don’t be on your phone, you don’t need to check Facebook and Instagram when you’re making a film.

  29. Ask before you take a set photo for your social media, the production team might want a closed set.

  30. Have someone on set that is taking behind the scenes photos, these are nice to have for promotional and portfolio material.

  31. Learn the rules of filmmaking before you start to break them.

  32. And if you break them, make it for a good reason because if you don't get it right people will know.

  33. Some audio recorders have a dual record mode, one can be set lower just incase your audio does peak.

  34. If you are the sound recordist and the audio peaks or there is an external noise that can be heard whilst shooting, don’t shout cut as you still might be able to use some of that take.

  35. But once cut has been called, say you were not happy with that take. It’s better to record it again now than to try and fix it in post.

  36. Don't struggle to reach a light up high which is on a stand, lower it, adjust it, raise it back up.

  37. Use a frosted shower curtain to create a large diffused light source.

  38. If you need your actor to be out of breath, make them go for a jog as you can't fake out of breath.

  39. Make a playlist for each of your characters to help get them in the role of the character.

  40. Get people to read your script

  41. Learn to take feedback

  42. Ask questions to those who read your script. “Is the dialogue okay? Are the actions clear?” This will invite them to give feedback.

  43. If someone says ‘Martini Shot’ on set, it means it's the final shot set-up of the day.

  44. If you're actor stumbles over a line, just keep rolling and go back a couple of lines. Cutting will break the flow and waste time.

  45. If you forget to mark the start of the take or the clapper board could not be in shot, make sure you clap at the end of the take, which is called second sticks.

  46. If you notice the take wasn’t marked, make everyone aware before the camera and sound is cut.

  47. Add Neoprene pads to the bottom of shoes or objects to deaden the noise they make.

  48. Place a CD, Piece of Plastic, Torch, Glass, anything with a reflective surface in front of your lens to add weird flares to your image.

  49. But use them as a reason to help tell your story, not just because they look cool.

  50. Make Films

  51. Whilst we are on the subject, learn to trust others to help make your film, people will be willing to help.

  52. Pre-line your script so you know exactly when to start and finish covering a shot.

  53. Date your camera batteries so you know how long you have had them. Batteries lose charge over time and this way you will know how long you have had them.

  54. The type of equipment you shoot on does not matter, but it also does depending on the type of film you are making.

  55. Learn how to use new equipment before you get on set. If you have to learn it whilst shooting it's an unnecessary stress you do not need.

  56. Work with the camera team to find out how low you can boom before you dip it in shot.

  57. And don’t get your microphone in the shot. I’m counting that as another tip.

  58. Get a camera slider.

  59. Don’t over use slider shots, use the movement to help tell a better story not just because the shot looks cool.

  60. Make a movie poster for each of your short films, print it out, and put it up to remind you what you have achieved.  

  61. Always have a few large coins in your bag for tripod plate screws.

  62. Or buy a flat headed screwdriver which stays in your bag and is just for tripod plate screws.

  63. Make sure your microphone is no more than 3 feet away from your subject.

  64. Have your camera slate in the shot before the camera starts to role. This means the first frame will have all of the shot information which will save time when naming and syncing up your shots as you will not have to go looking for the information.

  65. Freesound.org has thousands of free sounds effects and foley. They have everything from someone eating and apple……..to gun shots.

  66. When you are packing your equipment for your film, test your camera, turn on every light, test extension cables, microphones, audio cables, make sure your batteries are charged. Basically test everything before the shoot.

  67. You can never have to many extension cables

  68. A tripod can be called legs or sticks.

  69. If you have to adjust your tripod legs to make your camera level, buy one of these neewer leveling bases. You’ll wonder how you lived without one.

  70. Buy old prime lenses. They are cheaper, sometimes sharper and have different characteristics that you will not find on newer lens.

  71. Try taking a couple of frames off the start and end of each shot. It may work well to tighten up your edit.

  72. Before editing your audio, play your favourite song and adjust your volume to a comfortable level. Make a note and always monitor your audio at this level.

  73. Your dialogue should lie between -6dB and -24dB in the mix.

  74. Condense your shot list. Find way to join the shots together with pans and tilts. Movement is always more cinematic than a cut.

  75. Before the shoot, sit down with your cast and crew and go through the entire plan to get everyone on the same page.

  76. At the end of the shoot, once all of your equipment is out of the location, do one last check to see if you have missed anything.

  77. When you are handing someone a piece of equipment, don’t let go until they say ‘Hands on’ then you can say ‘hands off’. Safety is key on set.  

  78. Before you turn on a light shout ‘Lights going hot’ this will give people a warning and time to avert their eyes.

  79. Get a small LED torch like this one. It can fit in your pocket and costs about £3. You wouldn’t believe how useful it can be.

  80. Use bungee cords to stop lights stands and tripod from falling over when stored.

  81. Remember, achieving the film look is not about camera setting, fancy shots, and the LUT you apply to your footage. It’s everything you see in the frame, props, costumes, acting, locations, everything.

  82. You don’t always have to shoot using a flat profile like S-Log 2 or 3. Learn how to shoot using other profiles as well, it will save you time if the project needs to be turn around faster, or if you do not have a lot of experience color grading flat footage.

  83. Have brightly coloured audio cables. You can see them on the floor and if the cable drops into frame.

  84. If your actor is performing an action whilst delivering dialogue, try to minimise the noise of the action so it doesn’t infect your dialogue.

  85. Don’t have a shoulder rig? Use your Tripod

  86. Unclip the bottom tripod legs first, it will be easier to access the next leg as they are in the middle of your tripod and not at the bottom.

  87. If you have a plastic lightweight tripod do it the other way.

  88. Feed your cast and crew

  89. A fishing seat box trolley is a cheap and good way to move your equipment around.

  90. Watch your film and make a list of the sounds that you should be hearing. Clothes rustling, chairs creaking, cups clinking on the table. Fill your sound space.

  91. Hot swap between your film and your favourite movie when mixing audio. Your audio should be a similar level. You’ll know if its too loud or too quiet.

  92. Understand that people will not turn up and drop you in it at the last minute.   

  93. Before your final export, watch your film on a phone, tablet, and TV to see what it looks like. Every device will look different.

  94. Also listen to your film on a phone, tablet, TV, with cheap headphones and on studio monitors if you can. Can you hear all of the sounds on each device? If not, trying to make changes and listen again.

  95. Clip the script and shot list to the back out our clapperboard. This works great if your clapper loader and your 1st AD are the same person.

  96. Recording clean dialogue is your highest priority, don’t worry about recording foley yet, you can record all of that after if needed.

  97. If you can not apply aspect ratio bars to your camera or monitor, work out where they need to be and stick card to them.

  98. Spray Paint your lens caps Orange, they’re easier to find.

  99. When you rip of a piece of tape, leave a little tap on the roll so it is easier to get the next piece of tape.

  100. Making films is the coolest thing, so remember to have fun.


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Some of these links are affiliate links, if you purchase gear via these links The Film Look will receive a small commission, but there will be no additional cost to you. Thank you!